|
To get the best from your pack you need to load it correctly. But there's no single 'right way' - it depends what you'll be doing. Here are some tips.
Alpine Expedition Packs
It's a myth that you should always load a pack with the heaviest items at the top. On technical ground it's more important to stay balanced, which is best achieved by loading the heavy items low down and close to your back.
That's fine in principle, but some items are so awkwardly shaped that stowing them becomes difficult.
A full-length foam mat weighs little but consumes half the pack. A self-inflating mat saves space but is vulnerable to punctures on bivy ledges. The Alpine Attacks incorporate a removable bivy mat. Otherwise consider carrying a half-length mat. Most bivy ledges are too small to lie down on anyway. And you can generally improvise ground insulation for knees and feet. Carry the mat inside the pack to avoid snagging, perhaps in an upright loose roll that, in effect, lines the compartment.
During non-glacial approach walks, stow ice tools in the loops or tool shield fitted to the rear of the pack. On rock sections, slide them behind the side compression straps where they're more accessible. Stowed here, they also move the pack's center of gravity closer to your back.
On mixed ground, stow ice tools in holsters. They're pre-fitted to many of our packs (Alpine Attack, Contour Mountain etc.) If not, fit holsters to the waist belt or lower compression straps.
Crampons are as easy to stow as a pair of live lobsters. Traditionally they're strapped to the lid. But this makes the pack top-heavy. The Alpine Attack 50 has a purpose-made crampon pocket on the front. And the Off Limits' multipurpose accessory envelope will also hold a pair of unprotected crampons. Otherwise, crampons are best carried inside. Don't bother with rubber protectors - life's too short for placing 24 miniature bungs over 24 sharp points; just shake off encrusted snow and wrap the crampons inside a tough nylon pouch to prevent piercing damage and contain melt.
The pack load will be relatively small on technical climbing sections, when ropes and hardware are in use. Remember to cinch up the compression straps to stabilize the pack and prevent those sudden, disconcerting load shifts.
Ski mountaineering presents its own loading dilemmas. Many of our packs - the Rondoy and Ice Peak for example - incorporate ski fittings. Fit skis with tips uppermost and bindings clamped between the two sets of compression straps. Some also choose to fit a ski clip around the tips, pulling them into a stable 'A' shape.
Wilderness Travel Packs
Your aim when loading a large-volume trekking pack is to raise the center of gravity. You lose some stability but gain a more natural walking posture. The simplest way to raise the pack's center of gravity is to stow your sleeping bag in the lower compartment. Keep liquids near the top.
When trekking, a closed-cell foam mat weighs little but takes up a huge amount of pack space. It won't absorb water, so stow it on the outside using accessory straps. It doesn't matter where - top, side, base - as long as it doesn't impede your head or arm movements.
Tents are best carried inside. Most now come in several stuff bags, which makes life easier. They're best stowed upright, nearest your back. If the poles are long, zip away part of the compartment divider or carry them externally using the side compression straps and pole pockets.
Mountain Activist Packs
The priority when carrying a pack for mountain running or cross-country skiing is to clamp the load tight against your body in the region of least movement. Almost always this will be the lower back area, which explains the special shaping of Contour packs. To prevent bounce and sway with part loads, remember to cinch in the compression straps and adjust the waist and/or chest straps for a snug fit.
CARE OF YOUR NEW PACK
Your pack will last many years with or without help or hindrance from you. But if you follow these few simple guidelines you'll extend its active life yet further:
· Avoid using detergents and washing machines. You risk damaging the waterproof coating applied to the pack fabric.
· Allow mud and dirt to dry then brush clean. Be gentle. Don't use the same brush you keep for scraping rust from the wheel arches of your truck! Use a shoe brush or something with equally soft bristles.
· Remove oil and other stains using a natural soap cleaner and a bit of restrained scrubbing. As for solvents and sea salt, they're best removed by rinsing the fabric in cold water.
The chemicals in some insect repellents break down plastics. If you've ever inadvertently sprayed your shades or wristwatch then you'll know what can happen. Take extra care when storing cans of repellent spray inside your pack. If not kept upright they can leak, contaminating food and damaging nylon fabrics - including the pack fabric itself. Ideally, wrap cans of repellent in a piece of cotton, such as an old T-shirt.
|